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The Comedogenic Scale for Oils and Butters: Understanding How Comedogenic Ratings Work.

Written by: Zenani Sizane

Have you ever used a skincare product that is popular and going viral because of its ability to heal skin and fight acne, only to discover that when you follow the trend, the product is having the exact opposite effect on you and making your acne worse? This may occur for a variety of reasons, one of which is that the product’s specific ingredient may cause breakouts in you based on your skin type and surroundings. In this post, we will examine how some skincare ingredients can clog your pores and result in acne and other inflammatory breakouts by explaining what the comedogenic scale is and how to use it to predict which skincare ingredients are likely to cause acne. 

What is the comedogenic scale?

Everyone has different skin types and different skincare needs; therefore, every skin is different and will react differently to certain skincare products and ingredients. When dealing with skin care products, you will find many ingredients that can cause or exacerbate acne-prone skin. Any such ingredient that will “cause” acne is called “comedogenic,” which means that those who deal daily with acne-prone skin will stay far away from any ingredients that fall into this category.

Comedogenicity is a tendency for ingredients to clog your pores. Anything that disrupts the sebum outflow on your skin can lead to the formation of comedones (whiteheads). Comedones is a type of non-inflammatory acne and can further lead to the formation of inflammatory acne. 

An infection of the sebaceous glands causes acne, a skin condition characterized by red pimples around the affected area. A comedo is a highly dilated pore that is packed with sebum, dirt, and dead skin cells. It is the “hole” that surrounds a hair follicle, whether it has hair or not. When a comedo is closed (so the skin covers it), it can lead to inflammation, pimples, and whiteheads. If it is open, the pore will resemble a blackhead. It is the first step towards acne. 

An acnegenic ingredient can cause a general worsening of pre-existing acne (inflammation, redness, and itchiness). A comedogenic ingredient acts like glue on the skin’s surface: dead skin cells and excess sebum will stick together more and more, causing blackheads and whiteheads, not acne. 

The comedogenic scale is one way to navigate the spectrum of products and identify the ideal ones for you by learning about the components of the oils and how they differ. The comedogenic scale is ranked by how likely it is that any specific ingredients, such as oils and butters used in cosmetic product formulation, will clog pores. Anyone who is susceptible to acne breakouts and blackheads should avoid high-comedogenic oils, as they are likely to cause recurring acne problems, whereas people with drier skin might prefer to benefit from a more emollient oil, which will be more toward the middle of the scale.

The comedogenic scale is a five-point scale that tells you how comedogenic an ingredient is. Many factors are involved in how a particular oil impacts your skin, but there is no way to make an “absolute” prediction. The fact is that everyone’s skin is different, so an oil will impact different people in different ways. 

How do I use the comedogenic scale? 

All oils and butters contain various nutrients such as antioxidants, fatty acids (omega-3 and omega-6), anti-inflammatory, and anti-aging qualities. Some even defend against ultraviolet rays. Each oil and butter provide unique nutritional properties. It all depends on your skin type; some people benefit more from highly rated oils than those with intermediate ratings. 

Knowing the comedogenic scale is just a technique for determining what products are appropriate for your skin type. To help you detect components in other products that may clog your pores. The comedogenic rating was developed because each chemical in cosmetics has a unique tendency to block pores. A comedogenic rating is a scale that indicates how probable a substance is to clog your pores. 

Before determining how comedogenic a substance is, we must evaluate numerous elements, such as its extraction procedure, formulation, and the quantity of the chemical present. In fact, when used in low concentrations, a highly comedogenic substance can be completely harmless to your skin. 

This rating does not imply that products containing ingredients with a high comedogenic rating (4-5), such as coconut oil or cocoa butter, will cause breakouts. Just because some oils are scored higher on the scale does not guarantee that they will clog your pores; there is a potential, but it is not 100% certain. Products with a low comedogenic grade of 0-2, while considered to be safe, might nonetheless cause acne. The easiest way to know for sure is to test your products and see what happens subsequently. Knowing your skin type can also help you identify the best non-comedogenic ingredients for you.  

It is essential to remember that the oil or product is not inherently harmful to your skin and should not be avoided totally; nonetheless, it is critical to understand which one will nourish your specific skin without clogging your pores. It is also crucial to note that, while we mostly refer to carrier oils, the comedogenic scale is intended to apply to a variety of compounds, including waxes, minerals, botanicals, and emulsifiers. 

An ingredient is deemed “non-comedogenic” if it has a comedogenic rating of 2 or less; if it has a comedogenic rating of 5 or more, it is likely to clog your pores and cause breakouts. It is always crucial to understand how an oil’s concentration affects how a product performs. For example, coconut oil receives a lot of attention because it is a 4 on the scale, but only when utilized at 100%. However, coconut oil is frequently used in goods at a low percentage and then combined with other non-comedogenic oils to achieve a balance. 

Comedogenic Rating

0- won’t clog your pores at all

1: very low likelihood to clog pores

2: Moderately low likelihood

3-Moderate likelihood

4-fairly high likelihood

5-high likelihood of clogging pores

Botanical/Plant OilComedogenic Rating
Abyssinian Oil0-1
Acai Fruit Oil2
Ahiflower Oil1
Allanblackia Oiln/a
Aloe Vera0
Aloe Vera Gel0
Amaranth Oil2-3
Amla Oil1
Andiroba Oil2
Annato Oiln/a
Apple Seed Oil1
Apricot Kernel Oil2
Arctic Cranberry Seed Oil2
Argan Oil0
Arugula Oiln/a
Arnica Oil2
Ascorbic Acid0
Avellana Oil1
Avocado Butter2-3
Avocado Oil2-3
Babassu Oil1-2
Bacuri Oil4
Balanites Oiln/a
Baobab Oil2
Basil Seed Oiln/a
Beeswax2
Behenic Acid2
Beta-Carotene1
BHA2
Bitter gourd oiln/a
Black Cumin Oil2
Black Currant Seed Oil1
Blackberry Seed Oil1
Black Raspberry Seed Oil1-2
Blueberry Seed Oil0-1
Borage Seed Oil2
Boysenberry Seed Oiln/a
Brazil Nut Oil2
Broccoli Seed Oil1
Buah Merah Oil4
Buriti Oil2
Cabbage Seed Oil1
Cacay Seed Oil1-2
Calabash Seed Oiln/a
Calendula Seed Oil1
Calamus Oil1Essential Oil
Camelina Seed Oil3-4
Camellia seed oil1
Camphor Oil2
Candelila Wax1
Carrageen5
Carrot Seed Oil3-4
Carnauba Wax1
Cashew Nut Oil1
Castor Oil1
Cetearyl Alcohol2
Cetyl Alcohol3
Chaulmoogra Oil1
Cherry Kernel Oil2
Cherry Seed Oil2
Chia Seed Oil3
Chilean Hazelnut Oil1
Chilly Seed Oilessential oil
Chokeberry Seed Oil1-2
Chufa Seed Oiln/a
Cloudberry Seed Oil1
Coconut Butter4
Coconut Oil4
Cocoa Butter4
Coffee Seed Oil2
Coriander Seed Oil3-4
Corn Oil3
Cottonseed Oil3
Cranberry Seed Oil2
Cucumber Seed Oil1
Cupuacu Butter4
Custard Apple Seed Oiln/a
Daikon Radish Seed Oil1
Date Seed Oil3
Dimethicone1
Dhupa Seed Oiln/an
Dragon Fruit Oil1
Echium Seed Oil1-2
Elderberry Seed Oil1-2
Emu Oil1
Emulsifying Wax NF0-2
Evening Primrose Oil2-3
Fenugreek Oiln/a
Fig Seed Oil1n/a
Flaxseed Oil4
Goji Seed Oil0-1
Grapefruit Seed Oil2
Grapeseed Oil1
Gromwell Root Oilessential oil
Guanabana Oiln/a
Guava Seed Oil1
Hazelnut Oil1
Hemp Seed Oil0
Hibiscus Seed Oil1-2
Hinoki Oilessential oil
Illipe Butter2
Jatropa Seed Oiln/a
Jojoba Oil2
Kamala Seed Oiln/a
Kaolin Clay0
Kapok Oiln/a
Karanj Oil2
Karkar Oiln/a
Kigelia Africana Seed Oil2
Kiwi Seed Oil1
Kokum butter0-1
Kombo Buttern/a
Kpangnan Butter1-2
Kukui Nut Oil2
Kusum Oiln/a
Lanolin Oil2
Laurel Berry Oiln/a
Lettuce Seed Oiln/a
Licuri Oiln/a
Lime Seed Oiln/a
Lingonberry Oiln/a
Loofah Seed Oil1
Lunaria Seed Oiln/a
Macadamia Nut Oil2-3
Macauba Seed Oiln/a
Mafura Butter2-3
Mahlab Oiln/a
Mahua Seed Oiln/a
Mango Butter2
Mango Seed Oil2
Mangosteen Oil0-1
Manketti Oil0-1
Maqui Berry Oiln/a
Marroti Oiln/a
Marula Oil3-4
Meadowfoam Seed Oil1
Milk Thistle Seed Oil1
Monoi Oiln/a
Moringa Oil3-4
Mobola Plum Oiln/a
Mowrah Buttern/a
Murumuru Butter2-3
Mustard Seed Oil2-3
Neem Oil2
Niger Seed Oiln/a
Noni Seed Oiln/a
Oat Seed Oil1-2
Oiticica Oiln/a
Ojon Oiln/a
Okra Seed Oiln/a
Olive Oil2
Palash Seed Oiln/a
Palm Kernel Oil4
Palm Oil4
Pastel Seed Oiln/a
Papaya Seed Oil2-3
Parsley Seed Oiln/a
Passionfruit Seed Oil1-2
Pitaya Seed Oiln/a
Peach Kernel Oil2
Peanut Oil2
Pear Seed Oiln/a
Pecan Oil2
Peony Seed Oiln/a
Pequi Seed Oil3
Perilla Seed Oil1-2
Pilu Oiln/a
Pine Nut Oil2
Pisa Oiln/a
Pistachio Nut Oiln/a
Plum Kernel Oil1-2
Pomegranate Seed Oil1
Pomifera Seed Oiln/a
Poppy Seed Oil1
Praxaci Oil3
Prickly Pear Seed Oil1-2
Pumpkin Seed Oil2
Quinoa Seed Oiln/a
Ramtil Oiln/a
Rapeseed Oil4
Rhatany Oiln/a
Red Raspberry Seed Oil1
Rice Bran Oil2
Rosehip Seed Oil1
Rubber Seed Oiln/a
Sacha Inchi Oil0-1
Safflower Oil0
Sal Butter4
Sandalwood seed Oil2
Saw Palmetto Oiln/a
Sapote Oil2-3
Sea Buckthorn Berry Oil2
Sea Buckthorn Kernel Oil1
Sesame Seed Oil3
Sisymbrium oiln/a
Shea Butter0-2
Shea Butter var nilotica2-3
Shea Oil0-2
Shikonin Seed Oiln/a
Sorghum Oiln/a
Souchet Oiln/a
Soursop Oiln/a
Soybean Oil4-5
Squalane0-1
Squalene1
Strawberry Seed Oil1
Sunflower Oil2
Sunflower Seed Oil2
Sweet Almond Oil2
Tallow2
Tamanu Oil2
Tamarind Seed Oiln/a
Taramira Seed Oilessential oil
Thumba Seed Oiln/a
Tobacco Seed Oiln/a
Tocopherol(Vitamin E)2
Tomato Seed Oil0-2
Touloucouna Oiln/a
Tucuma Butter4
Tucuma Oil3-4
Tung Oiln/a
Ucuuba Butter4
Walnut Oil1-2
Watermelon Seed Oil0-1
Wheat Germ Oil5
Wolfsberry Oiln/a
Ximenia Oil0-2
Yangu Oiln/a

The Accuracy of the Comedogenic Scale.  

*Disclaimer: Healthy Together does not condone or support animal testing or cruelty. The studies given below are for research and information reasons only and are based on how the comedogenic scale research was conducted by another institution. We do not condone or advocate animal cruelty.

As mentioned throughout this article, the comedogenic scale cannot be trusted 100% because of several factors, such as skin types, inaccurate testing, different people, and the environment.

The goal of the comedogenic scale was to provide individuals with a list or guidance of “acne-causing ingredients” to avoid, but this was not the case with the specific test that was performed. There are numerous inconsistencies in assessing the comedogenicity of a given substance. The test was performed on a rabbit’s ear; the ingredient was applied to the rabbit’s inner ear every day for a week, and after three weeks, the scientist looked for imperfections and determined where the substance fell on the scale (0–5). 

Similar treatment would also be meted out to humans, except that they would have stripes on their backs rather than on their ears. The results of the human test would sometimes take up to six months to be determined. These studies’ findings were discovered to be erratic and dispersed, with one study demonstrating that an ingredient with a high comedogenicity would become non-comedogenic when diluted in product formulations. A different study revealed that ingredients that were clogging rabbits’ arteries did not always have the same effect on humans. 

Additionally, it was discovered that if the sunscreen’s “active” ingredients were non-comedogenic but the product as a whole was, the “inactive” ingredients would be at fault. Another study discovered that a product can still cause skin irritation, which leads to acne, even though it is non-comedogenic. It is safe to state that, even if one were to fully trust the scale, the results of all the research appear to contradict one another and are not significant enough to provide accurate and pertinent information about an ingredient’s comedogenic potential.

 When thinking about oils, it is crucial to remember that natural oils are a particular kind of ingredient that is frequently thought to have some capacity to clog pores. It is crucial to remember that processing methods play a significant role in determining which oils clog pores. Your skin’s reaction to the oil can be influenced by both the refined process of making oils and the quality of the original plant material. Because they are highly refined to make them clear and odorless, the majority of oils used in the cosmetics industry are less stable and more likely to go rancid. Refined oils have lost most of their antioxidants and are lower in natural nutrients. As a result, they are more likely to form a sticky, rancid film on the skin that clogs pores and increases inflammation. 

It is recommended that you test the products on your own. As mentioned, everyone has a different skin chemistry, type, and environment they deal with every day, so only you can tell how a product works for your skin and if it is safe to use for your particular skin type. 

It is possible that ingredients that have been tested and found to be safe in terms of comedogenicity will work just fine, but the same ingredients from a different location may have completely different effects. There is not a definitive response. Because the term “non-comedogenic” is not regulated by the FDA, most companies that label their products as such are probably doing so for marketing purposes, even if you trusted the scale.

References:

Understanding the Comedogenic Scale for Oils and Butters (herbaldynamicsbeauty.com)

What is comedogenic rating – FWBEAUTY

Comedogenic Scale For Your Skin Type — Woman With Mind

Oils and Butters for Your Skin: The Comedogenic Scale – Infinity Soap Company

https://skinkraft.com/blogs/articles/how-to-use-non-comedogenic-oils-for-face-and-skin

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