The Ultimate Fatty Acid List: The Different Types of Fatty Acids and How to Incorporate Them in Your Skin and Hair Care.

Written By: Zenani Sizane

Disclosure: The post contains affiliate links, should you purchase a product or service within the links that I provide I may receive a small commission. There is no additional charge to you.

Welcome back to Part Two: Fatty Acids and What They Are. If you haven’t read Part One yet, read here first [FATTY ACIDS], do so now to fully understand what fatty acids are and what they’re made of, and then come back here to join us as we continue our fatty acid excursion. The first section of the Fatty Acids blog delves into the principles of fatty acids and the various structures they are made of.

In this post, we will delve deeper into what essential fatty acids are, as well as break down the various types of fatty acids and how to incorporate them into your daily life, both physically through skin and hair and internally through ingestion. Grab a cup of coffee, tea, or a bottle of water and enjoy.

What are essential fatty acids?

Have you ever wondered what the difference is between fatty acids and essential fatty acids? The phrase “essential fatty acid” refers to fatty acids that are required for biological functions but excludes lipids that are merely used as fuel. Essential fatty acids are not to be confused with “essential oils,” which are “essential” in the sense of having a concentrated essence.

Essential fatty acids are fatty acids that humans and other animals must ingest because the body requires them for good health as the body cannot synthesize them on its own. Only two fatty acids are known to be essential for humans. Alpha-Linoleic acid (also known as Omega-3 fatty acid) and Linoleic acid (also known as Omega-6 fatty acid).

Other fatty acids are occasionally classified as “conditionally essential,” which means that they can become essential under certain developmental or illness conditions, such as docosahexaenoic acid, an omega-3 fatty acid, and gamma-linolenic acid, an omega-6 fatty acid.

A definitive definition of essential fatty acids (EFA) is:

“The term essential fatty acids (EFA) refers to those polyunsaturated fatty acids (PUFA) that must be provided by foods because they cannot be synthesized in the body but are required for health.”

As previously stated, Omega-3 and Omega-6 are essential for the body’s proper function, and they produce substances known as eicosanoids, which are vital hormones that regulate the immune system, neurological system, and other hormones.

However, omega-3 eicosanoids function differently than those found in omega-6 fatty acids. Eicosanoids from omega-3 fatty acids are beneficial to heart health, whereas omega-6 eicosanoids raise immunological response, inflammation, and blood pressure levels.

Although the two omega-fatty acids can have opposing effects, people should aim to balance them in their diet. Essential fatty acids are those that the body cannot manufacture on its own. They serve an important role in many biological functions, such as heart health, cancer prevention, cognitive function, skin health, and obesity prevention.

Food Sources of Omega-3 [ Alpha-Linoleic Acid]

Salmon
Cod Liver Oil
Mackerel
Herring
Sardines
Flaxseed
Chia Seeds
Walnuts
Soybeans
Hemp seeds

Food Sources of Omega-6[Linoleic Acid]

Grapeseed Oil
Pine Nuts
Sunflower Oil
Walnuts
Mayonnaise
Almonds
Tofu
Cottonseed oil

Essential Fatty Acids in Skin Care

We now know that the two essential fatty acids, omega-3 and omega-6, cannot be synthesized in the body and are primarily found in food sources, but this is also true for topical treatments of items containing these fatty acids. In fact, some studies have indicated that symptoms of essential fatty acid insufficiency can be restored by applying linoleic acid-rich products.

It has also been suggested that external application of fatty acids may be more beneficial to skin health than swallowing fatty acids, but remember that what you put in, you get out, so don’t overlook a healthy diet if you want flawless skin; it’s all about balance. Many fatty acids that are swallowed are claimed to be oxidized in the liver before they reach the skin, making topical administration of fatty acids on the skin a more efficient delivery mechanism for these critical fatty acids.

Essential fatty acids (EFAs) applied topically to the skin can help prevent and cure some of the damage caused by UV overexposure, and because of their important function in wound healing, EFAs can also prevent and repair the detrimental aging effects of the skin. Some researchers believe that fatty acids can also prevent collagen breakdown and increase skin metabolism, and that applying vegetable oils rich in essential fatty acids, such as sunflower seed oil, safflower oil, or even chia seed oil, may help repair that barrier in patients with a history of essential fatty acid deficiency.

A 2005 study published in the International Journal of Pharmaceutics discovered that topical omega-3 can reduce UV sensitivity in skin cells, and other studies have found similar links between topical omega-3 and a reduction in photoaging signs, as well as linoleic acid’s ability to reduce UV-induced hyperpigmentation in guinea pigs.

Excessive UV radiation is well recognized to cause cellular damage in the skin, causing inflammation and harm to the skin’s immune system. Premature aging is caused by the breakdown of collagen in skin cells, resulting in loss of suppleness and fine lines and wrinkles. Fatty acids found in skincare products help to protect and even reverse skin damage.

Essential fatty acids are vital for skin health, regardless of skin type, even if you do not have a deficiency. For people with good skin, topical application of fatty acid-containing products helps to protect against UV radiation and sunburn, which is an important step in preventing premature skin aging and wrinkles.

Other Uses of Fatty Acids

Used in the production of many food products.
Used in the production of soaps, detergents and cosmetics.
Support of hair and skin health
Some skincare products contain fatty acids, which can help maintain the appearance and function of healthy skin.
Fatty acids are also converted to fatty alcohols like cetyl alcohol and fatty amines via their methyl esters, which are factors in the development of surfactants, detergents, emulsifiers, and lubricants, which are all examples of fatty acids.

The Different Types of Fatty Acids and Their Functions

Fatty acids are essential for the proper functioning of your stratum corneum, as well as keeping the outside out and the inside in.

Fatty acids are crucial for healthy skin and general well-being. Some people, particularly those raised in the western beauty ethos, connect “oil” with “clogging pores” and gravitate for “oil-free” cosmetics. Aside from your skin’s ability to produce oil (sebum), it still requires topical treatment for a variety of reasons, including elasticity and keeping it supple, especially for those of us who have dry skin.

And it is undeniable that nutrition is just as effective as topical therapy for any essential fatty acid. Skincare products contain several types of fatty acids. Most plant oils include some of these fatty acids in variable concentrations.

Saturated Fatty Acids

Lauric Acid

Lauric acid is a saturated medium-chain fatty acid. The salts and esters of lauric acid are known as laureates. It is found in various plant and animal fats. It is a major component of coconut oil and palm kernel oil.

This naturally derived fatty acid is a major component in a lot of skincare products, especially those that are formulated using natural ingredients. Regularly using products enriched with lauric acid helps reduce conditions such as psoriasis. Additionally, lauric acid is well-known for its antimicrobial properties and is a natural way to fight against infection-causing bacteria.

Lauric acid helps the skin by reducing inflammation and the bacteria present in the skin. It also helps with skin repair and is commonly used for acne treatment.

Properties: anti-bacterial and anti-acne properties.

Lauric acid is considered to be the number one source of antimicrobial properties, especially when it comes to skin care. Using a little bit of coconut oil or cow’s milk in your skincare helps to soothe and calm inflammation, as well as inhibit acne-causing bacteria. This leaves your skin looking clear, blemish free and glowing.

Sources of lauric acid: Lauric acid is found in coconut oil, palm kernel oil, babassu oil, date seed oil, and cow’s milk.

Caution: People with sensitive skin must use lauric acid/products containing lauric acid with caution.

Myristic Acid

Myristic acid is a long-chain saturated fatty acid that occurs naturally. It is obtained from palm kernel oil, nutmeg butter, coconut oil, and bovine milk. Commercially, myristic acid salts are generated by reacting with base materials such as sodium or potassium hydroxide, whereas myristic acid esters are created by combining myristic acid with alcohol. It is available in a crystalline solid, which is slightly yellow or white in color.

In the cosmetic industry, myristic acid has a number of applications; for instance, it can be used as an opacifying agent, a surfactant, a cleaning agent, or an emulsifier. One of the principal qualities of this compound is that it can be used as a lubricant due to its high rate of absorption by the skin.

Myristic acid is quite efficient in treating various skin issues and ailments. The application of this cosmetic raw material helps to visibly reduce the appearance of cellulite and stretch marks. It also facilitates the reduction of signs of aging and serves as a useful component in a number of skincare and cosmetic products.

Properties: cleaning and a lubricant

Sources of Myristic Acid: Coconut oil, Palm Kernel Oil, Nutmeg Butter, Bovine Milk, and Breast Milk.

Benefits of Myristic Acid

Softens the skin

Myristic acid provides a velvety feel and creamy consistency to different formulations, which makes it an excellent component for people with dry or flaky skin as it is an emollient that softens and soothes dry skin. It also functions as a natural moisturizer that helps nourish and nurture parched skin, making it appear healthy, youthful, and glowing.

Improves skin penetration

Myristic acid alters the structure of the outer layer of the skin, making it simpler for active substances to be absorbed, and as a result,the skincare products you are applying can be more effective. The fatty acid content of myristic acid also helps with skin penetration.

Effectively cleanses dirt and impurities

Myristic acid is a good surfactant that aids in the mixing of water with dirt and oil, allowing the skin to appear clear, soft, and supple. The cosmetic component has potent foaming properties, which makes it an even better cleaning agent.

Boosts the barrier of the skin

Myristic acid strengthens the skin barrier by keeping the skin’s outermost layer robust and undamaged; therefore, it improves the quality of the skin due to its varied properties.

It also functions as a mortar, plugging up crevices between skin cells and preventing moisture from escaping. It also protects the skin, preventing pollutants, toxins, grime, and dust from affecting it.

It prevents acne and oily skin

Myristic acid is a wonderful component for acne and oily skin, notably if you suffer from breakouts. It helps in reducing excess oil and preventing pore blockage, which contributes to acne breakouts. The component maintains the skin’s top layer freshly exfoliated, which is also important for maintaining smooth and balanced skin.

Caution: It may be irritating in its pure form to the skin and eyes under exaggerated exposure conditions, but it is not known or predicted to induce sensitization responses.

Palmitic Acid

Alongside stearic acid, palmitic acid is a saturated fatty acid. Remember how saturated fatty acids are completely straight, like a toothpick? That means they can get closer together than the kinked and bent unsaturated fatty acids, which increases their overall density. That is why saturated fats tend to be solid at room temperature( like coconut oil and butters), while unsaturated fats are liquid at room temperature.

Palmitic acid is said to be the most common of the saturated fatty acids and is a rich emollient as well as an occlusive agent, meaning it locks moisture into your skin rather than letting it evaporate. It is a perfectly good ingredient, although it is not found in high levels in many plant oils you would use on your skin. This can improve dry and flaky skin as well as conditions like psoriasis and eczema.

Properties: Soothing, hydrating, Anti-aging and has barrier protective barriers

Palmitic acid is one of several fatty acids used in skin care as an emollient or moisturizer. Fatty acids are oily molecules that combine with glycerol to make the many fats found in nature. Palmitic acid is most commonly produced from palm oil, although it is found in smaller amounts in other vegetable oils as well as dairy and meat. To produce pure palmitic acid, the oil is boiled to break the fatty acids off of the glycerol, and then the different acids are separated based on their boiling points.

Palmitic acid is naturally found throughout the human body, including in the skin. When our body has an excess of carbohydrates, the carbohydrates are converted to palmitic acid and then stored as fat.

One analysis found that palmitic acid makes up 21–30% of human adipose, or fat tissue. Palmitic acid is also found in the stratum corneum of the skin. The stratum corneum is the skin’s uppermost layer, made up of dead skin cells bound together by the natural oils our skin produces.

In addition to palmitic acid, the lipid barrier contains ceramides, cholesterol, and several other fatty acids. This layer of the skin, or skin barrier, helps to protect the skin from moisture loss and prevents bacteria and allergens from damaging the skin.

Palmitic acid is often found in moisturizers due to its function as an emollient. Emollients help to soften and soothe the skin while also trapping moisture. Emollients form a protective film on the surface of the skin; this film helps to prevent the evaporation of the skin’s natural moisture and increases skin hydration by preventing water loss. This helps to maintain a healthy skin barrier and gives your skin a dewy, hydrated look.

Palmitic acid benefits the skin by helping to restore the skin’s natural barrier function. Fatty acids, including palmitic acid, along with ceramides and cholesterol, make up the skin’s lipid barrier. Without these essential lipids, the barrier is weakened. A weak or damaged barrier allows harmful things like allergens, bacteria, and irritants to pass through into the deeper layers of skin, which causes symptoms of dryness, itching, and irritation. Disruption of the skin’s barrier has been linked with conditions such as acne, eczema, sensitive skin, and even signs of aging. Skincare products that contain palmitic acid can help to prevent these problems.

In a cleanser, it has the potential to be drying, depending on which other ingredients it’s combined with and the cleanser’s pH level. In moisturizers, palmitic acid is a very good emollient, while its emulsifying abilities help keep unlike ingredients from separating. Palmitic acid has been determined safe for use in cosmetics when used in concentrations up to 13%.

Caution: Topical palmitic acid is not known to cause side effects. A diet containing large amounts of palmitic acid can increase the risk of heart disease, but topical application doesn’t contribute to this.

Stearic Acid

Stearic acid is a long-chain

fatty acid and is common in a variety of natural sources, such as cocoa butter and coconut oil. Stearic acid is another saturated fatty acid like palmitic acid, is very rich, and forms an occlusive layer over the skin. An interesting fact about stearic acid and palmitic acid is that their levels are up to 31% lower in aged skin than in young skin, which means that there may be anti- aging elements in these ingredients.

Stearic acid is known to have cleansing properties that purge dirt, sweat, and excess sebum from hair and skin. It is an ideal emulsifying agent that binds water and oil. It helps products remain potent when stored for long periods of time. It conditions and protects hair from damage without diminishing its luster or making it feel heavy. It has exceptional cleansing properties and softens the skin.

Properties: Rich and hydrating properties, but occlusive and tends to clog the pores of those who have acne-prone skin.

Sources of Stearic Acid: Plant butters, like cocoa, mango, and shea; sal and mowrah butters; as well as neem and tamanu oil.

Benefits of Stearic Acid

for Softening the Skin:

Moisturizing ingredients typically fall into three categories: humectants, emollients, and occlusives. Stearic acid is an emollient, meaning it works by softening and smoothing the skin. This is why it’s used to add moisturizing properties to products.

Bolsters the skin barrier:

Stearic acid is also an important component of the skin barrier, the outermost layer of the skin responsible for keeping natural moisture locked in and irritants locked out. Think of the skin cells in the barrier as bricks; stearic acid (and other fatty acids), along with things such as cholesterol and ceramides, are the mortar, imperative for keeping those bricks glued together to create a smooth surface with no cracks. As such, stearic acid can help strengthen your skin barrier.

It helps decrease the signs of aging.

As it strengthens the skin barrier, stearic acid protects against water loss and even helps decrease the signs of aging.

Can be tolerated by sensitive skin:

Stearic acid is a good choice for those with sensitive or irritated skin; it can even help reduce the flaking and itching associated with psoriasis.

It helps cleanse the skin.

Here’s where things get a little more interesting. Unlike other emollients, stearic acid is unique because it also works as a surfactant—essentially an ingredient that helps cleanse the skin—which is why it’s found in many cleansers. It helps oil, water, and dirt bind together and be removed from the surface of the skin more easily.

It doesn’t strip the skin’s natural oils:

Unlike other surfactants, it doesn’t strip your natural oils along with it. Plus, you’re simultaneously getting all of those aforementioned moisturizing effects, making it ideal for those looking for a gentle cleanser that won’t further dry out or irritate already-compromised skin.

It helps products apply more evenly.

Again, it has to be underscored that stearic acid is primarily used in cosmetic and skin care formulas as an emulsifier. Many cosmetic chemists consider using it to give their products a more luxurious feel and to help them apply more evenly.

Stabilizes products:

It’s what creates that smooth, silky texture we all love, and it also stabilizes final formulas and keeps them from separating.

Caution: However, people should avoid using stearic acid on its own. It may irritate a person’s skin and cause other health problems. Moreover, people should be aware of their allergies and sensitivities to different skin care ingredients. Products containing stearic acid may not be suitable for everyone to use as part of their skin care routine.

Caprylic Acid

Caprylic acid is a medium-chain fatty acid that belongs to the group of medium-chain triglycerides (MCTs). Caprylic acid is naturally found in edible oils like coconut and palm oils. It is also naturally present in the milk of humans, cows, and some animals, like bovine milk.

Caprylic acid is known for its antifungal, antimicrobial, and antibacterial properties. Caprylic acid is known to assimilate quickly and completely into the skin and body due to the medium-chain triglycerides present. The anti-microbial properties of coconut oil are contributed by caprylic acid, which is said to prevent the spread of harmful bacteria, which makes it effective for use on acne-prone skin types. Caprylic acid stimulates hair follicles with natural proteins.

People use it orally and topically for candida infections, skin conditions, high cholesterol, digestive issues, and more. One of the most popular potential benefits of using caprylic acid, whether consumed or taken orally in tablet form, is preventing the overgrowth of yeast-like fungi that can live and grow in your intestines. It is not a probiotic, but it does help to support gut health and the internal probiotic environment we all have.

Properties: antiviral, antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, and antifungal.

Sources: palm oil, coconut oil, breastmilk, full-fat cow’s milk, peanut butter and coconuts

Benefits of Caprylic Acid

Helps with Skin Infections:

The anti-microbial properties of caprylic acid help treat skin infections. One such infection is dermatophilosis, a bacterial infection resulting in painful and dry scabs. Caprylic acid can kill bacteria living in the skin and help treat the condition.

Reduces Cholesterol Levels:

In a couple of animal trials, caprylic acid and other medium-chain fatty acids were able to reduce cholesterol levels and atherosclerosis.

Anti-Bacterial Infections:

Caprylic acid was able to inhibit the growth of Salmonella and other bacteria in animal traits. Caprylic acid is able to reduce the number of pathogens in milk by penetrating into pathogenic bacteria and killing them. Short- and medium-chain fatty acids diffuse into bacterial cell walls, causing the bacteria to become acidic and lose their reproductive ability.

The antibacterial properties may also be beneficial for people with Crohn’s disease or ulcerative colitis. Caprylic acid in coconut oil may help decrease the incidence of spontaneous colitis and protect against inflammation in the gut.

Antibiotic Resistance:

Antibiotic resistance is a problem around the world, stemming from the misuse and overuse of antibiotics. Caprylic acid may be a helpful disinfectant that can reduce foodborne illness without the use of antibiotics.

Digestive Disorders:

There is some evidence that medium-chain fatty acids like caprylic acid may help patients who have certain digestive disorders. The anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties of caprylic acid may help manage conditions such as inflammatory bowel disease or irritable bowel syndrome. Both of these conditions involve inflammation and,sometimes, bacterial infection in the digestive system.

Caution: Caprylic acid is not recommended for people who are pregnant or breastfeeding. Caprylic acid supplements may cause mild stomach or digestive upset. People with frequent stomach problems should consult a healthcare practitioner before taking the supplements.

It is advised to consider consulting a dermatologist before applying coconut oil to your skin, especially if you have sensitive skin or any skin conditions.

Unsaturated Fatty Acids

Oleic Acid

Oleic acid is an omega-9 fatty acid that is very hydrating and ideal for drier skin. Oils high in oleic acid can help with dry and sensitive skin, reducing skin sensitivity. They work effectively to reverse the inflammatory response in various layers of the skin.

From a more chemical perspective, these acids are monounsaturated fatty acids, which means they create a double bond, making this acid richer and thicker than its siblings, known as linoleic acid. Research has shown that mixing oleic acid with other fatty acids, such as linoleic acid, has shown some surprising benefits in keeping the skin calm, nourished, and moisturized.

Oleic acid is considered the more stable form of fatty acids. That’s why it is also included in many cosmetic products to enhance the texture and shield some other delicate ingredients, like antioxidants, from too much light and air exposure.

Using oleic acid topically on its own or in the form of olive oil can be harmful to your skin as it can lead to disturbances in your skin’s barrier. People with dry skin can significantly benefit from oils rich in oleic acid, while people with oily skin experience more benefits from using oils rich in linoleic acid.

Olive oil, which is considered rich in oleic acid, is beneficial for cardiovascular health, helping lower blood pressure. Oleic acid controls the membrane lipid structure in the body, which is responsible for G protein.

A diet rich in oleic acid lowers cholesterol effects by maintaining HDL cholesterol levels, which can have some fantastic benefits for your health. The central element for weight loss is considered a result of healthy monounsaturated fatty acids. Oleic acid is a significant element in controlling excess insulin, which is beneficial for weight loss.

Oleic acid helps keep skin and hair soft, supple, and radiant. It promotes the development of thicker, longer, and stronger hair. Reduces the look of aging, such as premature wrinkles and fine lines; eliminates dandruff; and hence promotes hair growth. It improves immunity, has antioxidant qualities, and reduces joint inflammation, stiffness, and discomfort.

Oleic acid, named after the word “olive” because it is abundant in olive oil, is extremely hydrating. To some, it’s a powerful and luxurious way to hydrate; for others, particularly those with acne or extremely irritated skin, it can be a comedogenic ingredient. As always, your mileage may vary, so test some products or straight-up oils high in oleic acid to see how your skin responds.

Properties: soothing, moisturizing, restorative, and helping repair, balance, and calm the skin barrier.

Sources: avocado oil, olive oil, marula oil, macadamia nut oil, sea buckthorn oil, and Abyssinian oil.

Benefits of Oleic Acid

Oleic acid works as an excellent moisturizer

Some oils rich in oleic acids, like olive oil, avocado oil, almond oil, and others, work as a tremendous moisturizing seal on your skin but can be risky for people with non-dry skin. It replenishes lost moisture, which naturally happens with age.

Fights Free Radicals

Free radicals can accelerate the process of aging, causing damage to your skin’s DNA cells. The damage can further provoke skin complexion changes, skin texture, broken blood vessels, and dark spots.

It also messes up the collagen and elastin levels, leaving the skin baggy and loose. Our skin will lose its elasticity and firmness, resulting in the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

Oleic acid is a popular ingredient that helps treat dry and mature skin from deep within. It is also helpful in managing existing aging signs. By continuously using oleic acid, you can help delay the process of aging.

Promotes fat burning

Eating healthy fats is a key element in losing weight and keeping it off. For one thing, fats like oleic acid help to control excess insulin, which is important for weight loss. Plus, adding healthy fats to your diet helps to reduce hunger, cravings, and overeating because they are satiating and make you feel full for a longer period of time.

Anti-inflammatory and healing properties

As is already evident, oleic acid helps repair, balance, and calm the skin and acts as a natural protectorskin. It’s not only an excellent ingredient to lock in moisture, but it also protects the skin against all the external factors like climate, pollution, sun exposure, environmental damage, etc. Oleic acid is also known for strengthening the integrity of the cell membrane to help the skin recover from stressful situations.

Oleic acid can also help calm extreme skin conditions such as psoriasis, eczema, and rosacea.

Anti-aging and antioxidant properties

As we talked about earlier, oleic acid quickly layers the skin deeper to retain the lost moisture. Without oils, our skin tends to become dry, which ultimately makes it vulnerable to fine lines, wrinkles, and floppy and loose skin. Oleic helps the skin restore the oils without clogging your pores.

On the other hand, the antioxidant compounds in oleic acid can help protect against free radical damage and maintain youthfulness, smoothness, and firmness for a longer period of time. It can also rescue your skin from further damage, but it can’t repair past damage.

Promotes Brain Function

Research indicates that there’s an inverse relationship between the consumption of monounsaturated fatty acids and cognitive decline. One study published in the American Academy of Neurology’s journal Neurology evaluated an elderly population in southern Italy with a typical Mediterranean diet that’s high in monounsaturated fatty acids like olive oil. Researchers found that these healthy fats appeared to be protective against age-related cognitive decline and may work as a natural Alzheimer treatment.

Caution: Despite all the beneficial aspects of oleic acid,it is essential to remember that oleic acid can irritate the skin when applied in its pure form. However, you can upgrade your skincare routine by incorporating plant oils that are rich in oleic acid.

Oleic acid is not generally suitable for people with hypersensitivity. The use of oleic acid supplements while on blood thinners can cause an increase in blood pressure and bleeding. Remember that excessive consumption of oleic acid can throw off your balance of linoleic acid, which is an essential omega-6 fatty acid.

Despite all the amazing benefits of oleic acid, it is always recommended and important to seek guidance from your trusted healthcare professional before using supplements, new medications, or skincare products.

Linoleic Acid

Linoleic acid is an essential fatty acid that your body cannot produce by itself; you need to get it either from the food you consume or the products you apply to your skin. Linoleic acid can reverse damage from UV radiation, increase barrier function, reduce hyperpigmentation, increase circulation, fight acne, out skin texture, and reduce scaliness.

Linoleic acid is said to moisturize and promote growth; it also facilitates wound healing and is an effective emulsifier in a formulation. Linoleic acid exhibits anti-inflammatory properties, soothes acne and reduces the chances of future breakouts. It is said to promote moisture retention in skin and hair and make oils feel thinner in consistency when used in an oil blend, thus being beneficial for use on acne-prone skin.

Individuals with regular blemishes or oily skin may believe that they only need to use oil-free products; however, studies have revealed that people with acne have low levels of linoleic acid in their skin’s surface lipids. Using these fatty acid-rich oils topically may be the most effective strategy to address this issue. Linoleic acid, an omega-6 essential fatty acid, is not synthesized by the body. It offers anti-aging, barrier-protecting, soothing, and balancing effects and is best suited to oily and acne-prone skin. Black cumin, evening primrose, hemp seed, and grapeseed oils contain the greatest linoleic acid ratios.

Why doesn’t everything we put on our skin contain linoleic acid? That is because linoleic acid-rich oils are often pricey, and they have a relatively short shelf life, often less than 6 months, before oxidizing and spoiling.

Properties: anti-inflammatory, promotes circulation, soothing and balancing, anti-aging and barrier protection.

Sources: high-in plant oils such as black cumin, hempseed, evening primrose, grapeseed, passionfruit, guava seed, pumpkin seed, papaya seed, prickly pear,and soybean and sunflower seed and raspberry seed oil.

Benefits of Linoleic Acid

Brightens skin

Linoleic acid helps to stimulate cellular turnover, which brings healthy, new cells to the surface of your skin to replace dead, dull ones. Through this process, it increases skin luminosity, softens texture, and keeps skin softer and smoother looking.

May reduce the risk of cardiovascular disease

Studies show that consuming linoleic acid may help to lower LDL cholesterol, improve blood pressure, and reduce the overall risk of cardiovascular disease.

In a 2009 study, the American Heart Association published an advisory recommending that at least 5 to 10 percent of energy from omega-6 fatty acids, primarily linoleic acid, reduces the risk of cardiovascular disease, concluding that reducing intake levels would likely increase the risk. Researchers have contended that this is true when there is a proper balance of omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids in a 1:1 ratio.

Improves Reproductive health

Impaired reproductive health is a symptom of linoleic acid deficiency. Because linoleic acid contains essential components of all cell membranes, it can influence reproductive processes and alter the production of prostaglandins. Plus, the reproductive system requires a high polyunsaturated fatty acid content to provide plasma membranes with the fluidity that’s essential for fertilization.

Aids in Hydration

When you protect the skin barrier, you help keep moisture in and prevent the drying of the skin. Which explains why topical linoleic acid can be helpful for hydration. More specifically, linoleic acid is hydrating because it helps lessen trans epidermal water loss, which is the escape of water from our skin. In other words, a strong skin barrier helps to lock moisture under the surface of your skin, which keeps your complexion from drying out.

Promotes Healthy Brain Function

There’s significant evidence that linoleic acid plays a critical role in our cell membranes, which impacts healthy brain function. Researchers have found that brain unesterified linoleic acid concentration increases following a brain injury, which suggests that linoleic acid or its metabolites may be involved in neurotransmission and participates in the response to an ischemic brain injury, such as a stroke.

Healthier hair

Consider this a bonus benefit; your strands will love linoleic acid too. Research has found that including oleic and linoleic acids in your hair care products helps the scalp absorb other ingredients faster and more efficiently. Another study found that linoleic acid promotes hair growth by enhancing how hair follicles work and extending their life cycles so that they are able to grow more hair.

Caution: Consuming too many omega-6 fatty acids and not enough omega-3 can throw off your fatty acid balance, which can lead to inflammation and a number of serious health issues. It is advised to avoid eating processed foods that contain vegetable oils with omega-6s but rather focus on eating organic, non-GMO whole foods that are natural sources of this acid to maintain a healthy balance of your omega-6s and omega-3s.

Oleic Vs Linoleic Acid

The main difference between oleic acid and linoleic acid is that oleic acid is produced by our bodies, therefore supplementation is unnecessary. In fact, oleic acid is the most abundant fatty acid in nature, and it can be found in almost all of our cells.

Because oleic acid and omega-9 fatty acids are not deemed essential, there is no precise recommendation for their consumption. According to research, increasing your intake of omega-9s, possibly in place of omega-6 fatty acids, can have a positive impact.

Oleic acid is a monounsaturated omega-9 fatty acid, whereas linoleic acid is polyunsaturated omega-6. The distinction is that our bodies cannot produce polyunsaturated fats, thus they are deemed “essential” and must be received through the foods we consume.

They are a crucial source of energy for the body, but the Western diet often contains large amounts of linoleic and other omega-6 foods, such as refined vegetable oils. Eating too much omega-6 fats can actually cause inflammation in the body, so limit how much you ingest.

Alpha-Linolenic Acid

Omega-3 is an essential fatty acid that helps the skin barrier function. Alpha-linolenic acid is the only acid qualified as essential since it cannot be synthesized by the body. In the cosmetic industry, alpha-linolenic acid is known for its moisturizing power, which gives the skin suppleness. It is anti-inflammatory and soothes redness and skin irritations.

Due to the fact that alpha-linolenic acid cannot be produced within the body, alpha-linolenic acid must be obtained through diet. This polyunsaturated omega-3 fatty acid can be found in foods and vegetable oils, such as linseed. However, alpha-linolenic acid benefits may also provide a positive effect on skin without necessarily having to be consumed.

It is converted in the body into the unsaturated fatty acids eicosatetraenoic acid (EPA) and docosahexaenoic acid (DHA), which reduce inflammation. These fatty acids also promote eye health as well as brain and nervous system development. They also reduce blood pressure, cholesterol, and the incidence of stroke and cancer, improve memory, slow aging, and are said to prevent heart disease.

In skincare, alpha-linolenic acid is used to treat hyperpigmentation and reduce inflammation. Alpha-linolenic acid is also known to inhibit melanin production and reduce hyperpigmentation. Its anti-inflammatory properties are beneficial for blemish-prone skin as well–and they help to further improve hyperpigmentation since pigmentation disorders can be caused by the release of inflammatory cells.

When applied topically, an ample amount of alpha-linolenic acid can integrate and improve the totality of the skin barrier, which can help to enhance the skin’s overall appearance. In skincare, alpha-linolenic acid benefits can most commonly be found in cosmetic products.

ALA is found in chia seeds, sage, flaxseed, and a variety of vegetable and nut oils. Flaxseed oil has a high ALA content, which supports skin health. Flaxseed decreases skin cell inflammation and promotes regeneration.

Alpha-linolenic acid can contain other beneficial plant components, as is the case with flaxseed oil and beneficial lignans. Some of the benefits attributed to ALA may be related to the plant source and other biologically active compounds. Some of the benefits were researched in animals or cells, but not in humans.

The recommended daily intake of omega-3 fatty acids (ALA) is 1.6g per day for men and 1.1g per day for women, with an increase to 1.4g per day during pregnancy and lactation.

Probiotics may positively influence the metabolism of ALA. Users find that supplemental ALA reduces triglycerides, helps with dry eyes, and improves sleep quality and daytime alertness. Some users found it helpful in reducing heart palpitations and recommended taking it with food; however, some users experienced bloating, gas, and nausea; therefore, it is important to speak to your doctor before supplementing.

Properties: anti-inflammatory, decreases the risk of heart disease.

Sources: flaxseed, walnuts, chia seeds, perilla oil, soybean oil, pecans, hemp seeds, and mayonnaise.

Alpha-Linolenic Acid Deficiency:

ALA is considered essential in the diet because it is an omega-3 building block of the fatty acids EPA and DHA; therefore, a deficiency in ALA can cause:

Reduced vision
Weakness
Inability to walk.
Pain in the legs
Scaly skin
Excessive cholesterol and inflammation

To prevent deficiency, it is said that your diet should contain about 0.2 to 0.3 % of total calories from ALA.

Alpha-Linolenic Acid Benefits

Heart disease prevention

One of the best ways to help prevent and treat heart disease is to eat a diet that is low in saturated and trans fats and rich in monounsaturated and polyunsaturated fats, particularly omega-3 fatty acids. The Mediterranean diet emphasizes whole grains, roots, and green vegetables; daily servings of fruit, fish, and poultry; olive and canola oils; and alpha-linolenic acid (found in flaxseed). One study suggested that people who eat a diet high in alpha-linolenic acid are less likely to have a fatal heart attack.

High Blood Pressure

Several studies suggest that diets or supplements rich in omega-3 fatty acids lower blood pressure slightly in people with hypertension. One population study found that eating a diet rich in alpha-linolenic acid reduced the risk of high blood pressure by about 30%.

Inflammation

Inflammation contributes to the causes and severity of many diseases, including heart disease, diabetes, cancer, brain conditions, depression, and autoimmune disease. Reducing inflammation with ALA may improve these disease outcomes.

May soothe irritated skin.

Many of the issues that affect the skin are the result of dryness, e.g., irritation, redness, and roughness are often made worse by dryness as the skin does not have the proper hydration to heal. By sealing in moisture and supporting the health of the skin barrier, ALA may help soothe signs of irritation and support healthy, comfortable skin.

Caution: There are no known side effects of ALA-rich foods in the diet. However, certain forms of ALA (milled whole flaxseed) may be irritating to people with inflammatory bowel disease (IBD). High doses of supplemental omega-3 fats may increase the blood thinning effects of warfarin.

Gamma-Linolenic Acid

An omega-6 fatty acid that soothes inflammation and promotes ceramide synthesis. It is known as an anti-inflammatory that nourishes the skin with essential fatty acids and supports the growth of healthier and stronger skin, hair, and nails.

It is found in various plant seed oils, such as borage oil, evening primrose, and black currant seed oils. Omega-6 fatty acids, such as GLA, are found everywhere in the body. They help with the function of all cells. The body converts GLA into substances that have anti-inflammatory and anticancer effects.

Gamma-linolenic acid has a lot of the same great effects as linoleic acid, as it can reduce inflammation and increase ceramide synthesis, which forms 50% of the lipid matrix in the stratum corneum. It is a relative of linoleic acid and another fatty acid that you need to get from your diet/skincare regimen.

It has been used for centuries in homeopathic remedies and folk cures. Native Americans used it to reduce swelling, and by the time it made its way to Europe, it was used to treat everything, eventually being nicknamed “King’s cure-all”.

People use GLA for eczema, asthma, arthritis, high blood pressure, nerve pain related to diabetes, and many other conditions, but there is no good scientific evidence to support most of these uses.

It effectively soothes pain and discomfort associated with arthritis and symptoms of PMS, including headaches. Soothe joint pain and ease stiffness to improve flexibility, and potentially soothe the symptoms of allergies. It encourages healthier brain activity, helps slow the look of aging by sustaining skin elasticity and softness, and helps to sustain the health and function of the cells as well as of the immune, nervous, cardiovascular, and reproductive systems.

Gamma-linolenic acid is essential for maintaining brain functioning, skeletal health, reproductive health, and metabolism. It’s also essential for stimulating skin and hair growth.

Properties: Soothing, anti-inflammatory, supports hormonal balance.

Sources: borage, rosehip seed oil, evening primrose oil and black currant seed oil.

Gamma-linolenic acid benefits

Arthritis

GLA can help to decrease inflammation. Some studies show that it can improve your symptoms and functionality, and the risk of side effects are low.

Essential for skin functioning

Cracking skin, dry hair, and brittle nails may indicate you need more fats like GLA.

The integumentary system(skin, hair, nails, and glands) is your largest organ. It’s made up of countless cells that rely on the essential fatty acid content of GLA to stay resilient and supple, inside and out. If you are dealing with dermatitis, you will be happy to know GLA is an effective treatment for some.

Aids in weight management

Your body needs the right kind of fats to lose fat. GLA is one of the right kinds to turn your body’s fat burning network. GLA makes a certain kind of prostaglandin (a fat that works like a hormone to activate the metabolism. GLA revs up fat burning and boosts energy.

PMS and Menopause symptom relief

When experiencing PMS and menopausal symptoms, it could be from hormonal imbalances or excess inflammation-maybe both. One safe solution is GLA. A deficiency of essential fatty acids like GLA contributes to the inflammation that makes symptoms worse. Your body also needs GLA to make good quality, functioning hormones, although more research is still needed on this topic.

Caution: High levels of GLA intake can increase inflammation in the body, which can cause abdominal pain, headaches, nausea, and loose stools. It is always advised to seek the proper medical advice before supplementing.

Palmitoleic Acid

Palmitoleic acid is a little known-but a highly promising fatty acid present in some of the most delicious high fat foods. Palmitoleic acid is a monounsaturated fat and, among eight others, is part of the omega-7 fatty acid group. This group shares a common feature, which is that they all have a double bond or a lack of hydrogen atoms, hence “mono,” unsaturated at the number seven carbon atom of the fatty acid chain.

However, unlike omega-3 and omega-6 fats found in seeds, nuts, eggs, and fish, Omega-7 fats are not essential fatty acids because your body can make them endogenously, and just like other fatty acids, like caprylic acid, palmitoleic acid is made up of mostly carbon and hydrogen atoms.

Palmitoleic acid and vaccenic acid are the two most common omega-7’s but palmitoleic acid has many unique benefits, such as improved heart health, weight loss, and better skin health.

Properties: anti-aging,improved cognitive function, healing and rejuvenating

Sources: sea buckthorn oil, macadamia nut, avocado and olive oil

Palmitoleic Acid Benefits

Palmitoleic acid may support heart health.

Atherosclerosis is a process in which cholesterol builds up to form plaque that blocks your blood vessels. According to some studies, palmitoleic acid may decrease the subject’s chances of developing high blood pressure and atherosclerosis by reducing blood vessel swelling. Some scientists have also found that palmitoleic acid may strengthen your immune system, which also decreases swelling and inflammation, resulting in protecting your heart.

Palmitoleic acid improves satiety.

Taking palmitoleic acid, either in supplement form or in food form, may help you feel full longer. According to a study, palmitoleic acid reduced food consumption and encouraged the release of satiety hormones in rats. Some research has also found that omega-7 fatty acids may decrease total blood lipids and fat cell size and increase fat-burning. It is also said that palmitoleic acid balances insulin resistance in people prone to developing type 2 diabetes.

Palmitoleic acid supports insulin sensitivity.

Insulin resistance happens when your body’s cells do not respond to insulin, a hormone that controls the levels of blood sugar by facilitating glucose utilization. Palmitoleic acid has been found to offer protection against insulin resistance in some research. Some studies have shown that omega-7 may increase the metabolism of glucose, suggesting that individuals who are at greater risk of metabolic syndrome, pre-diabetes or diabetes may benefit from consuming dietary omega-7 fatty acids.

Palmitoleic acid may support skin health.

Palmitoleic acid may support the health of the skin, hair, and nails. When skin cells get exposed to the skin, pollution, or chemicals, they get oxidized, which may cause your skin to age prematurely. Omega-7 fatty acids protect against this oxidative damage by encouraging the development of new skin cells. In addition, some research has shown that palmitoleic acid may increase the synthesis of elastin and collagen, proteins that keep your skin young and strong, and reduce the appearance and onset of wrinkles.

Caution: Always seek professional medical advice before taking supplements.

Ricinoleic acid

Ricinoleic acid is an unsaturated fatty acid that may account for some of castor oil’s biological effects. Ricinoleic acid, originally known as 12-hydroxy-9-as-octadecenoic acid, is a fatty acid. Ricinoleic acid, an unsaturated omega-9 fatty acid and hydroxy acid, has analgesic and anti-inflammatory properties. Ricinoleic acts directly on the EP3 proteinoid receptor for prostaglandin E2. This is the process that causes castor oil to act as a laxative and induce labor.

Unlike most fatty acids, ricinoleic acid is soluble in solvents (e.g., alcohols).

Ricinoleic acid is found only in castor oil and is a natural emollient for the skin and hair. Castor oil is a non-volatile fatty oil that is derived from the seeds of the castor bean (ricinus communis), aka castor seeds. The castor oil plant belongs to the flowering spurge family Euphorbiaceous and is mainly cultivated in Africa, South America, and India (India accounts for 90% of castor oil exports globally). Castor oil is a superior lubricant compared to other vegetable oils.

Properties: soothing, antibacterial, cleansing, anti-inflammatory, antifungal, and antimicrobial.

Sources: found only in castor oil.

Ricinoleic Acid Benefits

Boosts circulation

Immunity is directly linked to healthy blood flow. If your lymphatic system does not function properly, you can develop chronic illness. The circulatory system is essential for keeping us alive by transporting oxygen to our cells. Castor oil has been shown to improve blood flow.

To treat joint pains

Castor oil is known for treating arthritis; its anti-inflammatory properties make it an ideal massage oil for relieving joint pain, nerve inflammation, and sore muscles. Massaging the joint with castor oil and placing a hot water bag helps with pain relief. In cases of arthritis, this process, if repeated twice a week, will ensure better results.

It makes your hair stronger and thicker

Castor oil is very good for your long and shiny hair. Using castor oil twice a week can help your hair grow faster, stronger, shinier, thicker, and free of dandruff. Castor oil has omega-6 fatty acids, which go to the root of the hair and improve circulation. The antifungal and antibacterial properties of castor oil can help to remove dandruff and cure scalp infections.

Heals dry, irritated, sun-burnt or acne-prone skin

The ricinoleic acid found in castor oil makes it a great natural home remedy for fighting acne. It penetrates deep into the skin and fights bacteria overgrowth that can clog pores. It softens and hydrates irritated skin at the same time. It also works to solve deeper issues causing breakouts, like an unhealthy balance of bacteria within the gut and hormonal imbalances.

Caution: While it can be an effective way to alleviate constipation, castor oil may cause GI side effects like diarrhea, vomiting, cramping, and bloating. It may also cause dizziness. Only use it for constipation under medical supervision.

Punicic Acid

Punicic acid, a bioactive compound of pomegranate seed oil,has gained wide attention for its therapeutic potential. Different studies conducted on animal and human models have revealed that punicic acid is very effective against various chronic diseases. A huge excerpt of research work was conducted on the industrial by-products of pomegranate and found that these by-products have antioxidant, anti-glycemic, and antimicrobial activity.

Punicic acid is an omega-5 fatty acid with repairing, anti-inflammatory and anti-aging properties. This polyunsaturated fatty acid is named for the pomegranate and is obtained from pomegranate seed oil. It has also been found in the seed oils of snake gourds. Punicic acid is conjugated linolenic acid because it has three conjugated double bonds, which is similar to conjugated linolenic acid, which has two.

Punicic acid is named after its principal source, pomegranate (Punica granatum). Among all of the sources of punicic acid, it is most abundantly present in pomegranate seed oil. The other sources of punicic acid are snake gourd seed oil and Trichosanthes kirilowi maxim seeds. Punicic is reported to be effective against ailments like obesity, diabetes, inflammation, and metabolic syndromes in various in vivo experiments.

The multifarious functional attributes of pomegranate make it a unique fruit compared to other fruits. Due to the higher antioxidant potential of pomegranate fruit and its other parts, e.g., peel, juice, seed, etc., it has been reported that this fruit has health benefits for the human body.

Punicic acid has been proven to protect collagen fibers found in the skin, accelerating wound healing and reducing the appearance of scars. The anti-inflammatory property of punicic acid has also effectively addressed skincare ailments like eczema and psoriasis.

Properties: healing, repairing, anti-aging, anti-inflammatory and rejuvenating

Sources: pomegranate and snake gourd seed oil.

Punicic Acid Benefits

Boosts Memory

Studies have reported that polyphenols, which are found abundantly in pomegranate seeds and their juice, could significantly enhance cognitive function. In fact, one study in Evidence based Complementary and Alternative Medicine found that pomegranate polyphenols could provide long-lasting protection from memory dysfunction caused by heart surgery.

Eliminates Frizz without causing greasiness

Punicic acid in pomegranate seed oil can leave the hair feeling soft and completely frizz-free. It is a natural cleanser and an effective emulsifier when used in hair care. It distributes clean,gentle hydration for thick,frizzy hair types.

Pomegranate seed oil can keep hair shiny and manageable throughout the day when used in conditioners. It can also be applied to the tip of the hair to protect the hair from breakage and heat damage.

It has anti-aging properties

Due to the omega-5 and phytosterols in the pomegranate seeds, it can increase the production of collagen in the skin and actually slow and reduce the effects of aging on the skin.

Collagen is often produced less as the aging process progresses, and the small amount of collagen produced isn’t nearly of the same quality as it is in youth. Eating pomegranate seeds can help boost collagen production and quality, making ithemincredibly effective in reducing fine lines and wrinkles on the skin.

Pomegranate seed oil is anti-inflammatory

Pomegranate seed oil contains omega-5 (punicic acid), omega-9 (oleic acid),omega-6(linoleic acid), and palmitic acid. This naturally occurring chemical combination soothes the skin and is easily applied to sensitive skin types. It penetrates the epidermis without irritating it, and at an interior level, it helps with joint pain and can reduce swelling. Pomegranate seed oil is also commonly used to relieve skin conditions like eczema and psoriasis and soothe sunburn.

Caution: counsel a medical professional before use.

Arachidonic Acid

Arachidonic acid is a fatty acid of the omega-6 class and is the main fatty acid of interest when referring to an omega-3:6 ratio. It is proinflammatory and immuno-supportive. Arachidonic acid is an unsaturated omega-6 fatty acid found in the outer layer of most cells in the body.

It is rich in the brain, liver, fat tissue, and other organs. AA is an important part of the normal inflammatory process, which gets activated during injury or irritation. It gets converted into inflammatory molecules that help heal and restore the function of damaged tissues. Excel omega-6s are often seen as bad because they get converted to arachidonic acid, which can increase inflammation in some situations.

Arachidonic acid is naturally produced in the body from another molecule (linoleic acid) and can also be ingested through different foods. It is most popular for its supposed effects on exercise and bodybuilding, but it also plays other important roles in the body, such as boosting the immune response. It is vital for the development and growth of infants and a major component in breast milk.

Arachidonic acid is obtained through two pathways. The first is internal production from shorter fatty acids like linoleic acid, which mainly occurs in the liver. The second pathway is through food, especially fish and poultry.

Arachidonic acid is one of the most highly regulated fatty acids in cells. Even during extreme fat-free diets low in arachidonic acid, it is difficult to reduce levels after a certain point. This compound gets released when cells are stimulated and rapidly gets metabolized in most tissues.

While the inflammatory response is inherently protective (against pathogens and injury), chronically high levels of inflammation are correlated with many chronic conditions, such as cancer, arthritis, stroke, neurodegenerative disorders, and cardiovascular disease. Several arachidonic acid metabolites are part of the inflammatory response; it may be important to monitor arachidonic acid intake under certain conditions.

Arachidonic Acid Benefits

Infant development

Arachidonic acid is essential for infant development and is found at consistent levels in breast milk. Breast milk is vital for infants because the amount of arachidonic acid naturally supplemented (through production and diet) is less than their bodies require. Arachidonic acid has been added to infant formulas in developed countries for a number of years now.

Even before birth, arachidonic acid is supplemented to the fetus through the placenta.

Brain Function

The human brain contains 60% fat, which requires arachidonic acid for its growth and function. Arachidonic acid is the most abundant fatty acid in the brain and rapidly accumulates during development. Using brain cells, researchers concluded that arachidonic acid promotes cell survival and enhances the growth of neurons.

Physical performance

Arachidonic acid supplementation increased energy levels and reduced inflammation but had no significant effects on muscle mass or strength in 31 resistance-trained males. Additionally, arachidonic acid supplementation for four weeks had positive effects on the development and fat levels of muscles.

Alzheimer’s disease

In a mouse model with Alzheimer’s disease, food with 2% arachidonic acid resulted in higher levels of amyloid plaques in their brains. However, a review of preliminary research suggested AA supplementation might be helpful for Alzheimer’s patients in combination with cognitive therapy.

Arachidonic acid deficiency: may compromise the immune response of infants. Several other studies found that both children and adults with learning disorders including ADHD, dyslexia, and autism have abnormally low blood levels of AA.

Caution: Although there is no consensus on whether high AA intake increases inflammation, certain populations may want to be cautious in their consumption. Arachidonic acid does not increase the concentration of inflammatory markers and may even reduce inflammation.

Behenic Acid

Behenic acid is a saturated fatty acid that is derived from the seeds of the indigenous Amazon tree species. As a fatty acid, behenic acid is important to help provide a protective barrier against the environment in order to maintain good skin quality.

The saturated nature of this long chain wax-like fatty acid is what gives it opacifying and texture-enhancing properties. It is sometimes used as an alternative to stearic acid, a decision dependent on desired aesthetics. Behenic acid is a very hydrophobic molecule, practically insoluble in water, and it consists of white to cream color crystals or powder in appearance. Despite this being a saturated fatty acid, its lower molecular weight and affinity for skin enable it to enhance the penetration of other ingredients without posing a risk of irritation.

In skincare, behenic acid has lubricant, emollient, and soothing properties, which help to restore the skin’s natural oils and improve overall levels of hydration. Furthermore, this sebaceous fatty acid is favorably soluble against the skin’s surface, making it a desirable ingredient to infuse into skincare formulas.

Behenic acid is also most commonly used to provide soothing relief for dry and sensitive skin. The sebaceous fatty acids play a role in maintaining the integrity of the skin barrier, thereby improving moisture-retention and enhancing skin-hydration.

Properties: restorative, very moisturizing, protective, soothing and conditioning

Sources: Moringa, Pracaxi, Karanja, and peanut oil.

Erucic Acid

Erucic acid is a monounsaturated omega-9 fatty acid that is present in the oil-rich seeds of the Brassicaceae family of plants, particularly rapeseed and mustard seed. It mainly enters the food chain when rapeseed oil is used in industrial food processing and home cooking in some countries.

Erucic acid is a fatty acid that contributes to “drying oils,” or those that polymerize when exposed to air. The film is a homogeneous, plasticized, soft-solid film that protects hair and skin while remaining flexible. This is how it acts as an anti-frizzing component, preventing water from entering the hair cuticle, and as a shine enhancer, allowing light to bounce off the uniform film on the hair strand. It acts on our skin to prevent TEWL while also protecting it from the elements such as wind, snow, and cold. This is a very unique procedure that is limited to oils such as mongongo oil and other “drying oils.”

Erucic acid is really important for soothing the skin, reducing redness, and improving the health of the moisture barrier. Erucic in the oil (broccoli seed oil) is especially helpful for taming coarser hair that has been exposed to harsh hair treatments.

Properties: hydration and silicone feel

Sources: Abyssinian oil, broccoli seed oil, meadowfoam oil, and jojoba oil.

Caution: Erucic acid-naturally occurring containment present in vegetable oil-is not a safety concern for most consumers, as average exposure is less than half the safe level. It may be a long-term health risk for children up to 10 years of age who consume high amounts of foods containing this substance.

Gadoleic Acid

Gadoleic acid is an unsaturated fatty acid found in many vegetable oils and animal fats. Similar to human sebum. It has a strong power of penetration into the skin and thus hydrates it without greasing it.

Gadoleic acid has emollient properties and deeply nourishes the skin. It is non-comedogenic and it is readily absorbed by the skin. It balances the oil in the skin, making it less oily.

Properties: soothing, emollient, anti-inflammatory and nourishing.

Sources: jojoba oil and meadowfoam seed oil.